WWI Digest 284 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: New to you? by Rob 2) Re: Iron Cross Decals by Jack Berlien 3) Re: Rigging by Jack Berlien 4) Re: Weekends messages and St. Louis Jasta by Charles_A._Duckworth@notes.up.com (Charles A. Duckworth) 5) Re: Weekends messages and St. Louis Jasta by Erik Pilawskii 6) Re: Five color lozengen decals by Charles_A._Duckworth@notes.up.com (Charles A. Duckworth) 7) Re: Five color lozengen decals by hartc@spot.Colorado.EDU (Charles Hart) 8) RE: Five color lozengen decals by Shane Weier 9) Re: Rigging by Alberto Rada 10) Re: Rigging by roger belanger 11) Re: Rigging by roger belanger 12) help by roger belanger 13) RE: help by Shane Weier 14) Re: German balloon buster by bucky@mail.prolog.net (Mary-Ann/Michael) 15) Re: Rigging by bucky@mail.prolog.net (Mary-Ann/Michael) 16) Re: Five color lozengen decals (AD, sort of...) by john@rollmodels.com (John Roll) 17) Saturday, 7 October 1916, Cazaux, Bordeaux by "Marian Hollinger, Bradley Omanson" 18) RE: Saturday, 7 October 1916, Cazaux, Bordeaux by Shane Weier 19) Re: help by mbittner@juno.com (Matthew E Bittner) 20) RE: Fritz Kempf by Jack Berlien 21) Re: Captivated by captive balloons? by gregrydquist@juno.com (Gregory N Rydquist) 22) Re: New to you? by Mick Fauchon 23) RE: help by Mick Fauchon 24) Re: Rigging by mbittner@juno.com (Matthew E Bittner) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 09:03:52 +0000 From: Rob To: wwi Subject: Re: New to you? Message-ID: <9610070904.aa02915@scosysv.speechsys.com> Mick Fauchon writes: >... I still can't > figure out why it should be nearly twice the price here: even with p&p > and the exchange-rate, it should be about A$40, tops. My guess would be the air frieght rates from Central Europe to Australia. This can be surprisingly different on different routes from different hubs. A few years back I had to fly from Denver, Colorado to north Dakota. The fare was almost exactly six times what it would cost to fly to Washington, DC--a longer distance. It proved cheaper (by about half) to fly to Chicago and backtrack to North Dakota via Minneapolis. Rob, robj@speechsys.com. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 12:01:17 -0700 From: Jack Berlien To: wwi Subject: Re: Iron Cross Decals Message-ID: Thanks for your offer, Alberto, but I think I found what I need on an Aeromaster sheet at another local shop here. So unless you're interested in the Gryphon sheet I mentioned, I think I have what I need for this project. Thanks and best regards, Jack **************************************************** Jack Berlien 214-995-3257 Email: j-berlien@ti.com "A clean desk is a sign of a cluttered desk drawer." ------------------ Original text From: Alberto Rada , on 10/5/96 9:01 PM: To: Multiple recipients of list At 10:14 AM 10/4/96 -0400, you wrote: >Anybody want to trade an Americal Gryphon 1/72 Eiserne kreuze ("iron crosses") >sheet #54 for something? I need an "iron cross" style cross with the white outline, to fit a 1/48 DRI. I picked up the above decal set at a local shop, thinking >it would work (it was the closest they had) but the cross I need for the fuselage >falls right in between two sizes on the sheet. Anybody know which decal set >has the markings I need? > >Thanks, > Jack I have two fuselage sides and two rudder Eiserne Kreuze by Propagteam " Eduard's " for the Fokker A.III that I think could fit your needs, if that is so send me your address and I'll snail mail them to you, and by the way keep the tiny whiny ones, as I only build 1/48 and up. Saludos Alberto ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 12:14:22 -0700 From: Jack Berlien To: wwi Subject: Re: Rigging Message-ID: The rigging discussion hit home with me! How do you hold the wire while the white glue dries? Do you drill holes, or just glue the wire next to the strut, or what? Someone said that they don't like to drill holes on 1/72 scale craft, but how do you attach the aileron control wire vertically between the two wings, where there is no strut? Also, I have been trying to find 0.010 or smaller wire (I guess the stuff is called "piano wire"?) like what came with a DML kit I have, but the smallest I can find is by K&S and it is 0.015, which looks too big. How does one find out what the scale diameter of various different rigging and bracing wires should be? I have a small reference library at this point; is that type of info included in Windsock datafiles and the like? Best regards, Jack **************************************************** Jack Berlien 214-995-3257 Email: j-berlien@ti.com "A clean desk is a sign of a cluttered desk drawer." ------------------ Original text From: bciciora@wwa.com, on 10/7/96 8:07 AM: To: Multiple recipients of list Mike wrote: >How can you guys do it? It's coming very slowly. The crazy glue doesn't seem >to want to stay on the wire long enough for it to bond with the struts. As old Fred, master builder in the Midwest C&C says, "Crazy glue will drive you crazy." Use white glue, Mike. Good, old-fashioned Elmer's Glue. A little dab'll do ya! Bill C. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 14:00:10 -0500 From: Charles_A._Duckworth@notes.up.com (Charles A. Duckworth) To: wwi Subject: Re: Weekends messages and St. Louis Jasta Message-ID: <1996Oct07.115439.1155.716201@uprr-internet.notes.up.com> Allan had sent me a message Friday advising my email was 'broadcasting' multiple messages so I un-subscribed on Friday afternoon and re-subscribed today after lunch, if anyone tried to contact me via the list between Friday and today please resend then message. On a different topic the St. Louis Jasta met again on September 27th, Pete Fedders was kind enough to bring all examples of 1/48th lozenge decals along with samples of the recent re-manufactured five color fabric to use as comparisons. In our eyes, Pegasus has the best match to the reprinted fabric top and bottom decal sets with the bottom being the best of the lot and Aeromasters having the second best top colors. The next St. Louis meeting is on November 1st "same time, same station" 7:00pm, 604 Foote, Webster Groves, Missouri. Gene Becker brought along a beautifully finished DML black and white striped Fokker Triplane done in the same scheme (Udet's?) as on the cover of the Alex Irmie Triplane book. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 13:27:25 -0700 (PDT) From: Erik Pilawskii To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Weekends messages and St. Louis Jasta Message-ID: On Mon, 7 Oct 1996, Charles A. Duckworth wrote: > On a different topic the St. Louis Jasta met again on September 27th, Pete > Fedders was kind enough to bring all examples of 1/48th lozenge decals along > with samples of the recent re-manufactured five color fabric to use as > comparisons. In our eyes, Pegasus has the best match to the reprinted fabric > top and bottom decal sets with the bottom being the best of the lot and > Aeromasters having the second best top colors. > Charles, howdy! Now, I'm quite intrigued by this result-- you mean that Errormaster actually came in with close colors???!? Man, who'd 'ave guessed? OOC (Matt, another one!-- Out Of Curiosity), from whence did his fabric samples hail? Were they only 5-color? Could you possibly post a list (from memory, of course) of all the decal sets you examined, and pass ranking/comments on them? Thanks, and welcome back. Cheers, Erik :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: "...Thus, Liege, we know the Earth to be banana-shaped." "Sir Bedevere, this New Learning intrigues me; explain again how sheep's bladders may be employed to prevent earthquakes...." .............................................................................. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 16:09:56 -0500 From: Charles_A._Duckworth@notes.up.com (Charles A. Duckworth) To: wwi Subject: Re: Five color lozengen decals Message-ID: <1996Oct07.140615.1155.716692@uprr-internet.notes.up.com> Were they only 5-color? Could you possibly post a list (from memory, of course) of all the decal sets you examined, and pass ranking/comments on them? I'll ask Pete if he could bring the samples back and the decals and I'll take better notes and post it after November 1st. I remember seeing something in the back of Windsock acouple of years ago showing the 5 color and where you could order it from in Germany. I don't believe a four-color was done in 1:1 scale. Now all we have to find is a U.S. source for Pegasus decals. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 15:58:15 -0700 From: hartc@spot.Colorado.EDU (Charles Hart) To: wwi Subject: Re: Five color lozengen decals Message-ID: >Were they only 5-color? Could you possibly post a >list (from memory, of course) of all the decal sets you examined, and pass >ranking/comments on them? > >I'll ask Pete if he could bring the samples back and the decals and I'll take >better notes and post it after November 1st. >I remember seeing something in the back of Windsock acouple of years ago >showing the 5 color and where you >could order it from in Germany. I don't believe a four-color was done in 1:1 >scale. Now all we have to find is a >U.S. source for Pegasus decals. To continue a thread... The replica lozenge fabric is the 5-color pattern. It was produced for the Museum fur Verkehr und Teknik in Berlin when they were restoring the ex-Strahle Halberstadt Cl types about 6 years ago. This fabric was also used to cover the new-build Fokker D-VII replica now in the USAFM. This fabric was produced using the original type of printing process from 1917, thanks to the researches of one of the Berlin team members. I am not sure whether any additional samples of this fabric are available. My samples were obtained directly from the Museum about 5 years ago. In general our knowledge about 4-color lozenge fabrics, particularly the lozenge pattern, is poorer than that of the 5-color fabric. There are surviving bolt width sized pieces of the 5-color, upon which replica fabrics (and there have been others) were based. The 4-color fabric seems to have had less wide distribution among German aircraft manufacturers and we seem to have fewer surviving pieces of 4-color fabric. Hence, some parts of the pattern are pretty well documented from big surviving pieces of fabric, other areas are only known from photographs. Most decals appear to have been based upon a rendition of the 4-color pattern made by Peter Gray in the 1960's, which was probably based entirely on photographs. This pattern was published in Aero Modeler and later Scale Models in the mid-1960's. As for replicas of the 4-color fabric, I think that there have only been attempts to paint restored airframes with four colors of lozenges for display in museums, examples in Germany, France and the Smithsonian's "U.10" come to mind. I know of no attempt to produce replica 4-color lozenge fabric. The lozenge fabric found on the restored Albatros D-Va in the Smithsonian is screen printed cotton fabric. This was NOT the technique used originally to produce lozenge fabric. I believe that the Smithsonian was simply trying to obtain a replica fabric at a reasonable cost. The best U.S. source for Pegasus decals is the postal service, or perhaps your phone. Send your order direct to Pegasus (they even have a FAX #) and give them your credit card #. They won't even charge you for postage. Your order is sent via air mail. I have used this method several times and am very satisfied with it. This also gives you the cheapest possible price for these products. IMHonestO, I didn't find the Pegasus lower 5-color decal to be a very close match at all with my replica fabric. Perhaps they have made a new batch of decals and modified the color of the inks. Charles hartc@spot.colorado.edu ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 08:04:13 +1100 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Five color lozengen decals Message-ID: <01BBB4EF.4BD738C0@pc087b.mim.com.au> Charles Duckworth tells us: >I'll ask Pete if he could bring the samples back and the decals and I'll take >better notes and post it after November 1st. >I remember seeing something in the back of Windsock acouple of years ago >showing the 5 color and where you >could order it from in Germany. I don't believe a four-color was done in 1:1 >scale. Now all we have to find is a >U.S. source for Pegasus decals. I have to ask. Is the fabric sample doped? If it *isn't* the comparison to the decals is spurious at least and misleading at worst. Doping will darken the colours substantially, and shift the colours as well. This fits neatly with comparison of the Aeromaster decals (which you say are closest to the fabric) which are somewhat lighter than most loz decals - maybe "scale colour" if you subscribe to that concept. Incidentally the Silberstrief (sp?) lozenge was created with the assistance of (among others) Glen Merril of Americal. Then copied slavishly by Chris Gannon of Pegasus (he claims this himself). So I'd say it's reasonable to assume that Pegasus loz should come in real close. Regards Shane ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 19:12:26 -0400 (AST) From: Alberto Rada To: wwi Subject: Re: Rigging Message-ID: <199610072312.TAA07225@fw.true.net> At 02:40 PM 10/7/96 -0400, you wrote: >The rigging discussion hit home with me! > >How do you hold the wire while the white glue dries? Do you drill holes, or >just glue the wire next to the strut, or what? Someone said that they don't >like to drill holes on 1/72 scale craft, but how do you attach the aileron >control wire vertically between the two wings, where there is no strut? > >Also, I have been trying to find 0.010 or smaller wire (I guess the stuff >is called "piano wire"?) like what came with a DML kit I have, but the >smallest I can find is by K&S and it is 0.015, which looks too big. How >does one find out what the scale diameter of various different rigging and >bracing wires should be? I have a small reference library at this point; >is that type of info included in Windsock datafiles and the like? Jack Thanks to the recommendation of someone on the list I had a go at the train section of Orange Blossom, a very complete hobby shop in Miami, and found .008 and .006 brass wire, it has the following ref. WR 2501 .006" WR 2502 .008" WR 2503 .010" WR 2504 .012" WR 2505 .015" HO scale details Detail Associates Box 197 Santa Maria CA 93454 I am using it and it works Saludos Alberto ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 19:11:22 -0400 From: roger belanger To: wwi Subject: Re: Rigging Message-ID: <32598E1A.2BC8@concentric.net> bciciora@wwa.com wrote: > > Mike wrote: > > >How can you guys do it? It's coming very slowly. The crazy glue doesn't seem > >to want to stay on the wire long enough for it to bond with the struts. > > As old Fred, master builder in the Midwest C&C says, "Crazy glue will drive you > crazy." > > Use white glue, Mike. Good, old-fashioned Elmer's Glue. A little dab'll do ya! > > Bill C. What size and kind of rigging wire are you using , ? -- ROGER BELANGER A job worth doing is a job worth doing well ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 19:25:17 -0400 From: roger belanger To: wwi Subject: Re: Rigging Message-ID: <3259915D.2F87@concentric.net> Jack Berlien wrote: > > The rigging discussion hit home with me! > > How do you hold the wire while the white glue dries? Do you drill holes, or > just glue the wire next to the strut, or what? Someone said that they don't > like to drill holes on 1/72 scale craft, but how do you attach the aileron > control wire vertically between the two wings, where there is no strut? > > Also, I have been trying to find 0.010 or smaller wire (I guess the stuff > is called "piano wire"?) like what came with a DML kit I have, but the > smallest I can find is by K&S and it is 0.015, which looks too big. How > does one find out what the scale diameter of various different rigging and > bracing wires should be? I have a small reference library at this point; > is that type of info included in Windsock datafiles and the like? > > Best regards, > > Jack > > **************************************************** > Jack Berlien > 214-995-3257 > Email: j-berlien@ti.com > "A clean desk is a sign of a cluttered desk drawer." > > ------------------ > Original text > > From: bciciora@wwa.com, on 10/7/96 8:07 AM: > To: Multiple recipients of list > > Mike wrote: > > >How can you guys do it? It's coming very slowly. The crazy glue doesn't seem > >to want to stay on the wire long enough for it to bond with the struts. > > As old Fred, master builder in the Midwest C&C says, "Crazy glue will drive you > crazy." > > Use white glue, Mike. Good, old-fashioned Elmer's Glue. A little dab'll do ya! > > Bill C. Try a model railroad shop for Detail Associates brass wire , they make it very small . Try Precision Enterprises Unlimited PO Box 97 Springfield VT. 05156 They have a product ^ mil. ceramic rigging fiber Try It They have a great catalog Roger B . -- ROGER BELANGER A job worth doing is a job worth doing well ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 19:51:39 -0400 From: roger belanger To: wwi Subject: help Message-ID: <3259978B.7744@concentric.net> Can anyone give me any info on how to assemble a vaccum form kit . The one that I have has no thickness to th wings do you use them as is or add filler to them toi give them more thickness . It looks to me as though there is not much to one of these kits . I am willing to make and add parts but there is'nt much to start with . Roger B. -- ROGER BELANGER A job worth doing is a job worth doing well ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 10:31:35 +1100 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: help Message-ID: <01BBB503.E2A64F20@pc087b.mim.com.au> Roger, With this: >Can anyone give me any info on how to assemble a vaccum form kit . The >one that I have has no thickness to th wings do you use them as is or >add filler to them toi give them more thickness . It looks to me as >though there is not much to one of these kits . I am willing to make and >add parts but there is'nt much to start with . Roger B. You have opened a very large and creepy can of worms. First and foremost, if you've never built a vacform before you'd do well to either a) Buy a book on the subject. Kalmbach had a good one I bought over 10 years ago and which is possibly still in print or b) Collect some articles on building vacforms from Finescale Modeller, Scale Models Int'l or Scale Aircraft Modelling I have about 200 hits in my database on such howto articles. Many of the SAM ones relate to biplanes, often WW1. I'm willing, indeed happy to copy a pile of these and snail mail them to you (or anyone else on the list who wants them). Conventional wisdom is that you should build a simple low wing monoplane as first vacform. I personally believe it's just as easy to do a WW1 bipe if you get smart and pick a single bay model with simple rigging. Incidentally, of the 50+ vacforms I've built, the very first was a 1:72 Libramodels DH-5 - and I still have it and *still* think I made a great job. you can too. Regarding the single thickness wings: This is actually one of the *advantages* of vacforms in 1:72. Injection moulding struggles to do justice to thin section highly cambered wings like most WW1 aircraft had. IF you are building WW1 in 1:72 all that is usually required is to cut out the wing, sand the trailing edge sharp (and add scalloping if appropriate), round off the leading edge and simulate the underside tapes with paint, decals or scribing. DO NOT be tempted to add raised ribs underneath. There are VERY VERY few aircraft for which this is appropriate except between the leading edge and front spar, and that very slight. Almost all WW1 model kits represent this incorrectly because *we* like it that way (wrong) IF you are building a 1:48 model and the kit has single thickness wings (actually, in my experience most 1:48 vacs have double thickness wings), the best solution is to skin the undersurface using embossed plastic card, possibly with a balsa core. I'm slowly preparing an article on using this technique in scratchbuilding, but it's a little long to go into here, and differs if you are improving a kit. In any case, most of the information is included in a 30 year old book by Harry Woodman called "Scale Model Aircraft in Plastic Card" Much of the meat of this volume was published in the old Airfix Magazine in the '70s and I also have *those* available if you want them. As far as detail goes, vacforms will always be less detailed than injection kits. Most modern ones come with the critical "hard bits" like engine, wheels and prop in metal, injection styrene or resin. Old ones either left it all to you or tried hopelessly to produce them on the vac as well. Detail parts are available form several suppliers - I must have kept Aeroclub alive for years. Other details - interior frames for example can be built up with rod,strip an strut sections of styrene, seats in metal or etch brass - are up to your level of enthusiasm, skill, desire and the fatness of your wallet. However I should say that I routinesly sand the stringer detail OFF of kits from DML (and others) because the rod/strip method gives BETTER results. Enough already from me. Let me know what, IF any I can send you, and I'll get the stuff in the post as soon as possible Shane ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 22:21:39 -0400 (EDT) From: bucky@mail.prolog.net (Mary-Ann/Michael) To: wwi, Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: German balloon buster Message-ID: <199610080221.WAA18991@ns1.ptd.net> At 08:46 AM 10/7/96 -0400, Brian Bushe wrote: >re: Re: German balloon buster This probably isn't the correct incident, but Ltn. Fritz Roth of >> > Jasta16 was a balloon buster of some fame. On Jan 25, 1918 he flamed 3 >> > Allied balloons in 8 minutes. He was flying a DVa in the French sector near >> > Verdun. >Isn't this one of the historical based missions in Red Baron (The >Computer Game). Bloody difficult too, with a pack of camels howling >down on you. Brian, It sure is...and I stillcan't figure out how he did it! Mike ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 22:21:41 -0400 (EDT) From: bucky@mail.prolog.net (Mary-Ann/Michael) To: wwi, Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Rigging Message-ID: <199610080221.WAA19006@ns1.ptd.net> At 07:29 PM 10/7/96 -0400, roger belanger wrote: >bciciora@wwa.com wrote: >> >> Mike wrote: >> >> >How can you guys do it? It's coming very slowly. The crazy glue doesn't seem >> >to want to stay on the wire long enough for it to bond with the struts. >> >> As old Fred, master builder in the Midwest C&C says, "Crazy glue will drive you >> crazy." >> >> Use white glue, Mike. Good, old-fashioned Elmer's Glue. A little dab'll do ya! >> >> Bill C >What size and kind of rigging wire are you using , ? It was stainless steel. .005" I send an earlier post with the name of the guy I bought it from. If you need it, let me know and I'll resend Mike ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 21:40:32 -0500 From: john@rollmodels.com (John Roll) To: wwi Subject: Re: Five color lozengen decals (AD, sort of...) Message-ID: **Snip** >Now all we have to find is a >U.S. source for Pegasus decals. I have just ordered a batch. They should arrive in 2 to 3 weeks, maybe sooner. John Roll ******************************************* John Roll john@rollmodels.com Vice President and Chief Modeler for ROLL MODELS, INC. THE Internet source for plastic model kits, books and supplies GREAT STUFF! GREAT PRICES! GREAT SERVICE! http://www.rollmodels.com It's not real soon anymore, it's NOW! ******************************************* ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 23:02:41 -0700 From: "Marian Hollinger, Bradley Omanson" To: wwi Subject: Saturday, 7 October 1916, Cazaux, Bordeaux Message-ID: <3259EE81.58A4@host.dmsc.net> Fair day. Placed in one small group of us four Americans here with an adjutant instructor who speaks English. Mighty nice system for us. All got leave over Sunday at noon today and went to Arcachen for dinner and took 4:48 train for Bordeaux. Arrived about 7 and went around all evening with gang. Got small room about midnight and turned in. I do wish I could hear from Gertrude soon. *************************** from the diaries of E.C.C. Genet, Escadrille Lafayette ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 13:33:17 +1100 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Saturday, 7 October 1916, Cazaux, Bordeaux Message-ID: <01BBB51D.4483FBC0@pc087b.mim.com.au> Hi all, >Fair day. Placed in one small group of us four Americans here with an adjutant >instructor who speaks English. Mighty nice system for us. All got leave over Sunday at >noon today and went to Arcachen for dinner and took 4:48 train for Bordeaux. Arrived >about 7 and went around all evening with gang. Got small room about midnight and turned >in. I do wish I could hear from Gertrude soon. Having watched this thread for some months I now know how the war in the air was finally won. 1. Go into town for dinner 2. Write letters home 3. Move back and forth between establishments 4. take leave 5. Complain about the weather 6. Complain about the mail 7. Complain about homesickness 8. Complain about lack of women 9. Take leave 10. Go to town and see women 11. If all else fails, go flying and return early due to mechanical problems, or weather Pretty much like all military service really, 99% boredom 1% terror. Shane ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 08 Oct 1996 01:02:46 EDT From: mbittner@juno.com (Matthew E Bittner) To: wwi Subject: Re: help Message-ID: <19961007.201627.4447.3.mbittner@juno.com> On Mon, 7 Oct 1996 19:51:34 -0400 roger belanger writes: > Can anyone give me any info on how to assemble a vaccum > form kit . The one that I have has no thickness to th > wings do you use them as is or add filler to them toi give > them more thickness . It looks to me as though there is > not much to one of these kits . I am willing to make and > add parts but there is'nt much to start with . Roger B. Please, do not add filler. The one aspect to WW1 aviation was how "small" and "thin" everything was. Most injected plastic kits are much too thick in this regards, and it is here were vac's shine. Wonderfully thin wings. Due to the "molding process" there is usually not much to a vac. Most parts have to be supplied either through the manufacturer through injected plastic, resin or white metal. Or, they have to be scratched by the builder. Which kit are you building? I bet there is at least one person on this list that has built it. As far as "how do I build it", after you sand the parts out, the difficult part is done. Just build it as you would an injected kit. One word of warning though: use CA, as liquid cement will harm a good percentage of these kits. This is where being thin has its disadvantage. Just keep you chin up, and we're here to help. Good luck! Matt mbittner@juno.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 12:04:55 -0700 From: Jack Berlien To: wwi Subject: RE: Fritz Kempf Message-ID: Peter, this is what I was looking for. Any chance I could get you (or someone) to Xerox the artical for me? Or, can you tell me how to obtain the volume? You mentioned single issues were not available, how many are in the volume? (and let me know the cost also). Thanks and best regards, Jack **************************************************** Jack Berlien 214-995-3257 Email: j-berlien@ti.com "A clean desk is a sign of a cluttered desk drawer." ------------------ Original text From: "PETER KILDUFF, UNIVERSITY RELATIONS, 21791" , on 10/6/96 9:32 AM: To: Multiple recipients of list FYI, there's a mini-bio of Fritz Kempf in the Winter '89 OVER THE FRONT. Also a photo of his Dr.I and slogan ("Kennscht mi noch?" in the dialect of his native Grand Duchy of Baden), reinforced by gorgeous line drawings of Kempf's 'plane and other a/c of fliers from Baden -- done by the youngest of the old Dutch Master Artists, Greg VanWyngarden. OTF does not sell individual issues, but the 1989 volume is still available and has other good stuff in it: a Doug Robinson article on Zepps, Jon Guttmann illustrated article on SPADs (both in the Spring issue), Autumn issue is all-French subject matter. Not to beat a dead horse, folks, but you're missing a lot by not grabbing back issues of OTF -- from the source (where they're cheapest). Greg & Jon were doing markings stuff early on and their work stands the test of time. (End of sermon.) Peter Kilduff ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 18:10:38 PST From: gregrydquist@juno.com (Gregory N Rydquist) To: wwi Cc: wwi Subject: Re: Captivated by captive balloons? Message-ID: <19961007.203456.11711.0.GregRydquist@juno.com> Peter & Riordan, Can I join the Gotha support group? Peer pressure is such a motivating force. I have one I'd like to build sometime as well. I have an old C&C issue with an article and pictures of a Gotha squadron. Petter, > >Let me know when you finally begin surgery on your Gotha, 'cause Iv'e snip >Riordan (requested of Peter, who wrote:) - I've got a $1.98 Aurora Gotha kit >that I'm >still trying to find time to build.) > >Peter Kilduff > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 17:39:26 +1000 (EST) From: Mick Fauchon To: wwi Cc: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: New to you? Message-ID: Rob, > >... I still can't > > figure out why it should be nearly twice the price here: even with p&p > > and the exchange-rate, it should be about A$40, tops. > My guess would be the air frieght rates from Central Europe to > Australia. I don't think it works that way, as we get Eduard stuff relatively cheap; CA's stuff is produced in the Czech Republic, but marketed from the 'States. You guys get it cheap, we have to pay freight, dealer's charges, etc again. With Blue Max the position is much simpler: it's just state-of-the-art robbery 80( Cheers, Mick. -- -- Mick Fauchon | Internet: ulmjf@dewey.newcastle.edu.au Reference Section, Auchmuty Library | Ph (intl+61+49) 215861 University of Newcastle, AUSTRALIA | Fax (intl+61+49) 215833 MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM M M M Tasmanian Devil: "#@%!&^*%%...!#@!&**%^@@#$#-+*+*&##@...!!" M M M M Yosemite Sam : "Cut out that Army talk!..Yer in the Navy now!" M M M MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 17:51:59 +1000 (EST) From: Mick Fauchon To: wwi Cc: Multiple recipients of list Subject: RE: help Message-ID: Shane, > I'm willing, indeed happy to copy a pile of these and snail mail them to > you (or anyone else on the list who wants them). > Aircraft in Plastic Card" Much of the meat of this volume was published > in the old Airfix Magazine in the '70s and I also have *those* available if > you want them. Wouldn't like to send a copy down this way, would you, ol' pal, ol' buddy? 80) TIA, Mick. -- -- Mick Fauchon | Internet: ulmjf@dewey.newcastle.edu.au Reference Section, Auchmuty Library | Ph (intl+61+49) 215861 University of Newcastle, AUSTRALIA | Fax (intl+61+49) 215833 MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM M M M Tasmanian Devil: "#@%!&^*%%...!#@!&**%^@@#$#-+*+*&##@...!!" M M M M Yosemite Sam : "Cut out that Army talk!..Yer in the Navy now!" M M M MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 08 Oct 1996 01:02:46 EDT From: mbittner@juno.com (Matthew E Bittner) To: wwi Subject: Re: Rigging Message-ID: <19961007.201626.4447.1.mbittner@juno.com> On Mon, 7 Oct 1996 14:40:23 -0400 Jack Berlien writes: > The rigging discussion hit home with me! Ouch! > How do you hold the wire while the white glue dries? Do > you drill holes, or just glue the wire next to the strut, > or what? Someone said that they don't like to drill holes > on 1/72 scale craft, but how do you attach the aileron > control wire vertically between the two wings, where there > is no strut? You don't have to hold the wire there. The glue is sufficiently thick enough to hold the wire by itself. Just use tweezers to get the wire there, then let go. True, vertical wires are the worse. However, they just require a little more patience. > Also, I have been trying to find 0.010 or smaller wire (I > guess the stuff is called "piano wire"?) like what came > with a DML kit I have, but the smallest I can find is by > K&S and it is 0.015, which looks too big. How does one > find out what the scale diameter of various different > rigging and bracing wires should be? I have a small > reference library at this point; is that type of info > included in Windsock datafiles and the like? As someone already mentioned, check out the model railroad shop. Also, fine wire will work as well. I've heard people use speaker wire (the wire you get from cheap speakers - not Monster Cable ;-)) to good advantage. FWIW, I have been using the .006" brass "rod" that Detail Associates puts out. Using another model railroad product called Blacken It, I chemically alter the brass to be black - or a very dark brown. Looks ok to me. However, I still want to find stainless steel wire, as that looks the best, IMNSHO. Matt mbittner@juno.com ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 284 *********************