WWI Digest 272 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Resin report by GRBroman@aol.com 2) Re: Warcars by GRBroman@aol.com 3) Re: Nieuport Interplane Strut Tapes by bucky@postoffice.ptd.net (Mary-Ann/Michael) 4) Re: Help! by Charles_A._Duckworth@notes.up.com (Charles A. Duckworth) 5) Re: Help! by t_eisen@ix.netcom.com (Thomas Eisenhour) 6) Re: Warcars! by aew (Allan Wright) 7) Re: Nieuport Interplane Strut Tapes by meba@cso.com 8) KAE SSW DIV update by Joseph Gentile 9) RE: Help! by MCCLURE@skynet.litc.lockheed.com 10) Re: Help! by MCCLURE@skynet.litc.lockheed.com 11) Re[2]: Rib Tapes on Vac wings by SHUSTAD@email.usps.gov 12) Re: Help! by Jack Berlien 13) Re: Pfalz Manifolds by Erik Pilawskii 14) Re: Nieuport Interplane Strut Tapes by Erik Pilawskii 15) Re: Last of the Models by aew (Allan Wright) 16) WWW page administration by aew (Allan Wright) 17) WWW Page Down by aew (Allan Wright) 18) Re: WWW Page Down by Erik Pilawskii 19) Re: WWW Page Down by aew (Allan Wright) 20) Hit Kit Ansaldo A.1 "Balilla" by john@rollmodels.com (John Roll) 21) Lozenge Decals by Joseph Gentile 22) Re: KAE SSW DIV update by mbittner@juno.com (Matthew E Bittner) 23) Re[2]: Pfalz Manifolds by "Shelley Goodwin" 24) Re: Lozenge Decals by bucky@mail.prolog.net (Mary-Ann/Michael) 25) Re: Lozenge Decals by "Shelley Goodwin" 26) Re: Help! by "Valenciano . Jose" 27) Re: KAE SSW DIV update by "Valenciano . Jose" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 07:24:44 -0400 From: GRBroman@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Resin report Message-ID: <960927072442_318605552@emout05.mail.aol.com> This is sorta off topic, but hey, you can use resin to mold more WW I planes, boats and vehicles, right? Courtesy of Rec.models.scale: From: writt@aol.com (WRitt) Date: 12 May 1996 18:36:29 -0400 The following is a report on my first attempts at resin casting. I appologize for the length, but, I'm trying to make it as easy as possible for those modellers who think it is too difficult. Materials used: Alumilite resin Alumilite Corp. 225 Parsons St. Kalamazoo, MI 49007 616-342-1259 I suggest you do yourself a favor and contact this company for their literature if you are attempting casting for the first time. They will include a small booklet that is very informative and will get you going in the right direction. They are also very friendly and helpful and will answer any questions you may have. CASTALL RTV - This is an industrial product that you probably will not be able to get. Based on conversations and research may I suggest that beginners substitute GE 3110. This is available from many sources including Alumilite, who also have a quick cure catalyst that will cure this in about 1-2 hours. I am also told that this RTV does not need to be de-aired. Though I have not tried it yet this is what I will try when my CASTALL runs out. If you have not tried resin casting yet by all means do. It is not beyond the ability of any experienced modeller and will open up a world of possibilities to you. You may pick any subject you choose for a first attempt, but, you will be more successful if you choose something that will work in a 1 piece mold. This should be something with 1 flat side with no detail on that side. By starting this way you will not have to be concerned with "gates" and "runners", the channels that carry the resin into the actual mold cavity and allow air to exit. Get some experience before you tackle gates and runners. Also, if you choose to use GE 3110 RTV you should pick a master that does not have very deep undercuts as this material is not flexible enough to allow extraction of your master if it has more than moderate undercuts. All that said let's get to it. I used a 4" X 4" piece of ordinary glass to build my mold on because it is cheap, easy to obtain, easy to clean, and will not adversly affect the cure of RTV as wood might. Using just a tiny drop of white glue, glue your master, flat side down in the center of the glass. Now build a "mold box" around the master. I used pieces of .040" (1mm) thick styrene to build a 4 sided box around the master. Allow at least 1/2" all around the master, including above it. You may use any type of glue on the box that you would like, but be sure it does not leak as this is what will hold the RTV in place around the master as it cures. Hot glue would work well for this and it is very quick. Use modelling clay or hot glue to seal this box in place around the master. You are now ready to pour your mold. Mix your RTV following the directions that came with it. I can't emphasize this strongly enough. I am told by the experts that most problems stem from not thoroughly understanding the directions for the products used. When you pour the RTV begin pouring directly over your master and pour very slowly. You are trying to avoid air bubbles on the surface of the master as these will render your mold useless. You may want to use a disposable acid brush to paint a coat of the RTV on the master to ensure that there are no bubbles on the surface. I did not find this to be necessary, but, keep it in mind as a solution to the problem of bubbles. I have found that no mold release agents are needed on the master. You may want to use it on the glass and the inside of the mold box to make removing the mold easier. I used a mold release made from petroleum jelly and mineral spirits. Mix a 1/8" diameter ball of Vaseline to a teaspoon of the paint thinner. Use a Q-Tip to apply this sparingly to the glass and inside of the mold box. Allow the RTV to cure for the time that the manufacturer specifies. When cured remove the mold box and remove the mold from the master. If you have trouble removing the mold from the master, soak it in warm water to break the white glue joint. Once the master is free from the glass bend and flex the mold as needed to free your master from the mold. It is now time to pour a casting. Dust your mold cavity with Johnson's baby powder and blow off any excess. This will help prevent any air bubbles at the surface of the cast part. If you use Alumilite resin you may want to refridgerate it for about 20 minutes to slow the cure and give you a little more working time as this stuff "kicks off" fast. No matter what resin you choose READ, UNDERSTAND, AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS. Using a disposable plastic mixing cup (available at your local hobbyshop) mix a batch of resin. Be sure you mix enough to fill your mold cavity. As soon as it is mixed pour it into the mold. Pour slowly and start pouring into the deepest part of the cavity. Fill the mold slightly above the surface and then slide your piece of glass over the surface of the mold. This will ensure a flat bottom to your cast part. It will cause some flash, but it will be minor and is easily removed. The resin will cure in a matter of minutes. When cured remove the cast part from the mold in the same way you removed your master. VIOLA, your first resin cast part. HAVE FUN! Bill Rittner ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 07:24:28 -0400 From: GRBroman@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Warcars Message-ID: <960927072427_318605496@emout16.mail.aol.com> In a message dated 96-09-26 15:51:42 EDT, you write: >Hi again, Well I think I'm going to stretch my scale to 1/64 so I can take >advantage of the model railroad 'S' scale. I've heard that there are some >railroad manufacturers that specialize in 'S' scale. Anyone know of any. Well, I must admit that I recently discarded much info on S scale. I picked it up last year at RCHTA for a rail road modeler, but lost his adress so I eventually chucked it. Try the railroad modelers newsgroups. I will keep my eye out for stuff at RCHTA in a week or two amd let you know what I find. Glen ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 08:05:07 -0400 (EDT) From: bucky@postoffice.ptd.net (Mary-Ann/Michael) To: wwi, Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Nieuport Interplane Strut Tapes Message-ID: <199609271205.IAA25747@ns1.ptd.net> At 12:19 AM 9/27/96 -0400, bciciora@wwa.com wrote: >Or whatever they're called. Those pieces of fabric wrapped around the interplane >struts of Nieuports (maybe all French fighters; seen 'em on Spads too). > >How do you simulate them? On 1/48 what I've been doing is just painting the strut first. Once it is done, I mask off a fabrice portion and spray it with Modern desert sand a few times. If it goes on after the strut is painted, there's enough thickness to suit my tastes. Mike Muth ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 07:15:20 -0500 From: Charles_A._Duckworth@notes.up.com (Charles A. Duckworth) To: wwi Subject: Re: Help! Message-ID: <1996Sep27.044115.1155.671697@uprr-internet.notes.up.com> I would recommend Scale Coat's product called 'Unpaint' sold at model RR hobby shops - I have never had a problem with it ruining plastic and have used it over 15 years (I started using it when I was a baby). ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 05:25:53 -0700 From: t_eisen@ix.netcom.com (Thomas Eisenhour) To: wwi Subject: Re: Help! Message-ID: <199609271225.FAA05599@dfw-ix12.ix.netcom.com> Jose wrote: >Help! I know we have covered this topic before, how do I strip acrylic >paint from a kit without turning the plastic to goo? Brake fluid? Do I >soak for a few minutes or hours? And if I use that should I clean it >with anything special afterwards? Any type of ammonia or alcohol will remove water-based paint and will not harm the plastic. I use Windex or isopropyl alcohol. Apply the liquid, scrub like hell with an old toothbrush, then wash it off with warm soapy water. Did all the paint come off? If not, repeat step one. Use a toothpick to get paint out from corners and recesses. I know you didn't ask but brake fluid will remove oil-based paints but it's hard on the plastic (makes it soft and brittle). The cheapest brake fluid seems to work just as well as the most expensive. Oven cleaner (lye) will also remove oil-base paints and seems to be somewhat gentler or the plastic, although perhaps not quite as quick or effective. Good luck! -- Tom Eisenhour t_eisen@ix.netcom.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 08:37:16 -0400 (EDT) From: aew (Allan Wright) To: wwi Subject: Re: Warcars! Message-ID: <199609271237.IAA26657@pease1.sr.unh.edu> > >Great ideas - punching from the backside, how does this work on different > >thicknesses of plastic. Some of the plates are going to be made from > >40 thou card, some can be much thinner. I guess I could punch the rivets on > >10 thou. card and laminate it onto 30 thou card to get 40 thou with rivets. > >This sounds like an easy way to do it. Sound right? > > Actualy, I havent tried punching on 40 thou, just 10 and 20. On the thick > stuff I used aftermarket rivets or sprue. O.K. Will take that under advisement - I'll try out some samples first. > >Whoa, sounds like mucho work. I guess my first car will have woden spoke > >wheels or metal wheels. > > Hey, lots had solid centers! Yep - that's a choice too! > >as my first attempt to ease the learning curve. If I can get a Rolls or a > >Lorry in 1/64 scale I'd be in heaven! > > Since lots of model railroaders like stuff from the early dyas of steam, this > shouldnt be a problem. I think I remember seeing lots of early cars in S > scale. That would be ideal - I've posted to Rec.Models.Railroad and have some RR friends looking for me too. > I'll forward the resin casting article I pulled from RMS Got it - thanks, I'll code it up for the WWW page too. Looks like good stuff. Thanks, Al =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | Rodents of unusual size? I don't think they exist. University of New Hampshire+--------------------------------------------------- Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://pease1.sr.unh.edu =============================================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 07:43:18 -0500 From: meba@cso.com To: WW1 Modelers Subject: Re: Nieuport Interplane Strut Tapes Message-ID: <199609270739.HAA11252@cso.com> On 27 Sep 96 at 6:18, bciciora@wwa.com typed diligantly: > How do you simulate them? I thought I was being clever spraying > some clear dope Xtracolor on decal film, then slicing it into > strips. Worked great on the vertical strut. Now I try on the oblique > strut, and the strip doesn't want to lay down right. I'm not sure if > I have to slice it at the bulge, do it in several pieces, or what. > > > Can anyone help? (Matt) I'm working in 1/48. The tapes are > probably so thin in 1/72 that this isn't an issue. Well, in 1/72nd, I just paint them on. Just make sure you haven't had too much caffeine! ;-) I would try decals in 1/48th. I don't understand "slice it at the bulge". Have you tried just wasting decal, and lying it across both struts, then cutting the extra away after it dries? I would also do only one side of the strut at a time, and not wrap it around. Or, if your hand is steady, try to paint it on, as well. If you look really close at photo's, they're not too thick on the real thing, so even 1/48th is probably thin enough just to be painted on. Thanks for thinking of me. :-) Matt meba@cso.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 08:19:29 -0500 (CDT) From: Joseph Gentile To: wwi Subject: KAE SSW DIV update Message-ID: <199609271319.IAA13270@Walden.MO.NET> My thanks go out to all of you who have helped me with my latest project. It would have been nearly impossible for me to build up a decent kit without your assistance. So, Charles D., Joey V., Greg and Matt B., You once again have my sincere thanks. As an aside, Matt...Love that DR I. It's, so, it's so you man. I have finally completed the fuselage and I possibly stumbled onto something that you all may or may not know of so I thought I'd share it with the list. I have been using a cigar liner that is essentially a very thin sheet of cedar to line all interior wood parts including the fuselage walls, bulkheads, cockpit coaming and floorboard. I laminated it directly to all the brass parts I stole from the Eduards kit using the appropriate part as a template. I made photocopies of the fuselage and used this as a rough template. The wood is very flexible, not brittle at all and responds well to the constant bending I have had to do in order to deal with a few minor fit issues. As far as color goes the lightest part or base of the wood matches up pretty close to Model Masters "wood" so touch up is a non issue. The best part is that it "looks just like real wood!" Now, for those of you who want to try this and don't like cigars only buy good stogies, i.e. Romeo y Julieta's, Monte Cristo's, Punch, etc... keep the liners and ship the cigars to me. I'll keep them safe. Anyway, I hope that I was able to give back something to you all. Joe ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 6:12:44 -0700 (PDT) From: MCCLURE@skynet.litc.lockheed.com To: wwi Subject: RE: Help! Message-ID: <960927061244.2020de40@skynet.litc.lockheed.com> One of my friends at the local IPMS club uses alcohol and a cheap ultrasonic cleaner. He found the cleaner at a local drugstore (it's one of those used for cleaning dentures and he paid less than $20 for it). He'll fill it with alcohol, pop in a kit and turn it on. Thirty seconds later, the kit is stripped clean with no damage to the plastic. One word of warning with what ever method you decide to use. Always use a test piece first. Kent McClure ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 6:21:29 -0700 (PDT) From: MCCLURE@skynet.litc.lockheed.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Help! Message-ID: <960927062129.2020de40@skynet.litc.lockheed.com> This is a follow up to my earlier post. Now that I saw the mention of ammonia, I'm beginning to wonder if it was ammonia mixed with water tht my friend used in the ultrasonic cleaner. For those who have suggested Polly S ELO, I'm glad you had luck with it. When I last used that stuff for an HO train model I had it attacked the plastic. I just don't trust that stuff. Kent ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 10:23:14 -0400 From: SHUSTAD@email.usps.gov To: "(u)wwi" Subject: Re[2]: Rib Tapes on Vac wings Message-ID: <0033000001627421000002*@MHS> Alright, alright! Rib tapes on 1/72 vac wings huh? What *I* do, (which is not always the right way - just ask my SWMBO), is us .010 x .015 strip styrene liquid glued in place on the top surfaces. After dry, sand down until it looks right. As to the undersides, theres no reason why the same method can't be used, but I usually scribe in a doublr line(s) for each rib with my x-acto. Underside ribs did not seem to be as prominent. After painting, these ribs can be accented lightly with a clear straightedge and colored pencil. Hope this helps some. Steve H. (I am in Oz after all!) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I would like suggestions on adding rib tapes to the undersides (and probably redoing the upper ones) of vacuform wings in the "master scale" of 1/72. Perhaps the "Wizard of Leawood" could help. (to the tune of "If I only had a brain") "I would model away the hours, if I only had the power to finish off the plane. I could be a master-modeler instead of a 1/48 modeler if rib tapes were explained...." ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 09:13:25 -0700 From: Jack Berlien To: wwi Subject: Re: Help! Message-ID: For what it's worth, in my avid model railroading days (trying to sound like an old timer but I'm really not) I used Easy Off oven cleaner to remove the factory paint on railroad cars. I guess that was probably oil-base though. It did a good job; would even remove thick, glossy paint, very little scrubbing - it would literally fall off the model sometimes. Didn't bother the styrene, either. Just spray it on and wait - (just like when cleaning the oven - except don't turn it up to 400 degrees ;) The Windex sounds the easiest method so far for acrylics! I just started using acrylics, so that info will be very valuable to me! Thanks. Jack ********************************************************** Jack Berlien 214-995-3257 Email: j-berlien@ti.com ------------------ Original text From: t_eisen@ix.netcom.com (Thomas Eisenhour), on 9/27/96 8:29 AM: To: Multiple recipients of list Jose wrote: >Help! I know we have covered this topic before, how do I strip acrylic >paint from a kit without turning the plastic to goo? Brake fluid? Do I >soak for a few minutes or hours? And if I use that should I clean it >with anything special afterwards? Any type of ammonia or alcohol will remove water-based paint and will not harm the plastic. I use Windex or isopropyl alcohol. Apply the liquid, scrub like hell with an old toothbrush, then wash it off with warm soapy water. Did all the paint come off? If not, repeat step one. Use a toothpick to get paint out from corners and recesses. I know you didn't ask but brake fluid will remove oil-based paints but it's hard on the plastic (makes it soft and brittle). The cheapest brake fluid seems to work just as well as the most expensive. Oven cleaner (lye) will also remove oil-base paints and seems to be somewhat gentler or the plastic, although perhaps not quite as quick or effective. Good luck! -- Tom Eisenhour t_eisen@ix.netcom.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 09:59:07 -0700 (PDT) From: Erik Pilawskii To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Pfalz Manifolds Message-ID: On Thu, 26 Sep 1996, Shelley Goodwin wrote: > I'll keep posting my inquiry on Pfalz manifolds until it is answered > or someone otherwise persuades me to cease. > All right, dang it-- I'll dig into this 'un, seeing how I just got a new Pfalz from Herr Mattness.... ;^) My initial *guess*, given the unit's placement and function, is for cast iron or light steel of some grade. We shall see.... Cheers, Erik :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: "...Then lobbest Thou thy Holy Hand-grenade of Antioc towards thy Foe, who, not being in My sight, shall snuff it...." "...AMEN...." .............................................................................. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 10:22:22 -0700 (PDT) From: Erik Pilawskii To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Nieuport Interplane Strut Tapes Message-ID: > On 27 Sep 96 at 6:18, bciciora@wwa.com typed diligantly: > > How do you simulate them? I thought I was being clever spraying > > some clear dope Xtracolor on decal film, then slicing it into > > strips. Worked great on the vertical strut. Now I try on the oblique > > strut, and the strip doesn't want to lay down right. I'm not sure if > > I have to slice it at the bulge, do it in several pieces, or what. > You might try my latest idea (ok, ok, already a bad sign...): I used strips of nylon pipe thread tape. It's very "sticky"-- adheres well to the surface-- is white in color, and one 'wrap' is sufficiently thin to look appropriate even in the Master Scale. Of course, for the Balloon Scale, you might want to make several passes.... ;^) (he he!) Cheers, Erik :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: "...Then lobbest Thou thy Holy Hand-grenade of Antioc towards thy Foe, who, not being in My sight, shall snuff it...." "...AMEN...." .............................................................................. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 13:25:36 -0400 (EDT) From: aew (Allan Wright) To: wwi Subject: Re: Last of the Models Message-ID: <199609271725.NAA28465@pease1.sr.unh.edu> > 1/72 $10.00 35/36 Fokker D.VI & Pfalz D.XII Merlin Injected Plastic " > Combination kit, has metal parts and decals" Got the kit in the mail - thanks! -Al ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 13:39:40 -0400 (EDT) From: aew (Allan Wright) To: wwi Subject: WWW page administration Message-ID: <199609271739.NAA28730@pease1.sr.unh.edu> Hi everyone, During the next couple of weeks I'm changing over the WWW page from the old server software (GN) to new server software (Apache HTTPD). This means that any new submissions will likely be put on hold until I have the new server running. Service will be uneffected during the change-over. Hopefully when I get the new server software on-line I can get the back issues of the mailing list digest downloadable and searchable again. If you have any questions just e-mail me. Thanks, Al =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | Rodents of unusual size? I don't think they exist. University of New Hampshire+--------------------------------------------------- Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://pease1.sr.unh.edu =============================================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 14:40:12 -0400 (EDT) From: aew (Allan Wright) To: wwi Subject: WWW Page Down Message-ID: <199609271840.OAA29132@pease1.sr.unh.edu> I hate computers..... The WWW page will be down until further notice. In the process of trying to copy the data for the WWW page to the new server I trashed the whole disk. Being a good computer specialist I do have a backup, but it will take a while to get the data restored. I'll let everyone know when the WWW page is back on-line. The mailing list will remain uneffected. I hate computers..... -Al =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | Rodents of unusual size? I don't think they exist. University of New Hampshire+--------------------------------------------------- Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://pease1.sr.unh.edu =============================================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 12:04:07 -0700 (PDT) From: Erik Pilawskii To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: WWW Page Down Message-ID: On Fri, 27 Sep 1996, Allan Wright wrote: > I hate computers..... > Dang, Al.... > The WWW page will be down until further notice. In the process of trying to > copy the data for the WWW page to the new server I trashed the whole disk. > Being a good computer specialist I do have a backup, but it will take a while > to get the data restored. I'll let everyone know when the WWW page is back > on-line. > Well, at least *you* made a proper backup. Certain *other* (!) persons, however.... Cheers, Erik :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: "...Then lobbest Thou thy Holy Hand-grenade of Antioc towards thy Foe, who, not being in My sight, shall snuff it...." "...AMEN...." .............................................................................. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 15:07:07 -0400 (EDT) From: aew (Allan Wright) To: wwi Subject: Re: WWW Page Down Message-ID: <199609271907.PAA29538@pease1.sr.unh.edu> > > I hate computers..... > Dang, Al.... > Well, at least *you* made a proper backup. Certain *other* (!) persons, > however.... The WWW page is back on-line. I'm still restoring the incremental backup data so Matt's models are not on-line right now. They page should be back to 100% before C-O-B today. Sorry, Al =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | Rodents of unusual size? I don't think they exist. University of New Hampshire+--------------------------------------------------- Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://pease1.sr.unh.edu =============================================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 15:37:21 -0500 From: john@rollmodels.com (John Roll) To: wwi Subject: Hit Kit Ansaldo A.1 "Balilla" Message-ID: Hi all! Allan asked me to do 'box' review of the Hit Kit Ansaldo A.1 "Balilla", so here it is: The instructions call it a '1/72 multimedia short-run model kit'. Well, that's true. The flap-end opening box contains 1 sprue of plastic parts plus the upper wing which apparently came from a separate mold. There are a total of 25 plastic parts in off-white -- and a modest amount of flash. The detail on the plastic parts looks OK, although some of it is a little heavy. Not like Pegasus, but not too bad for a short-run kit. The wings have raised ridges that look more like oversized rib tapes than fabric covering. A little bit of gentle sanding ought to take care of that. There are two, very small, frets of brass parts. This is what earns the kit the 'multimedia' label. I'm not sure that it's worth it. Each fret is just about 1 inch square. The total number of brass parts is 9 and includes 4 spoked wheel halves and, apparently, some nondescript cockpit details. I'm not generally impressed with these brass parts. Also included is an acetate sheet of instruments a-la Eduard. I can see nothing obvious that this goes behind. The decal sheet is good-sized. It is, in fact, bigger than the sprue of parts. Markings are included for Polish, Russian (Soviet), Latvian and Italian aircraft. The Latvian swastikas are maroon. Does anyone know if that's right? Interestingly enough, they did go to the trouble to print them maroon rather than the red of most of the other markings. That shows a some attention to detail. The decals seem reasonably well printed with only a couple of small registration problems. I have no references at hand, so I can't comment on the accuracy. Overall? It is not too bad. It reminds me of the old Airfix kits or maybe the Entex SPAD. If you want an injection-molded A.1, you've got a choice between HitKit and... HitKit. So, I guess I could recommend it. If, on the otherhand, you were looking for an injection-molded OEF D.III, I'd definitely spring for the Pegasus kit. That's my opinion John Roll Oh, I almost forgot, if anyone is looking to buy one from Roll Models, I just shipped off the last one that I had. What do you think, should I order more? ******************************************* John Roll john@rollmodels.com Vice President and Chief Modeler for ROLL MODELS, INC. THE Internet source for plastic model kits, books and supplies GREAT STUFF! GREAT PRICES! GREAT SERVICE! http://www.rollmodels.com It's not real soon anymore, it's NOW! ******************************************* ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 18:18:46 -0500 (CDT) From: Joseph Gentile To: wwi Subject: Lozenge Decals Message-ID: <199609272318.SAA20460@Walden.MO.NET> Still being relatively new to this list I would like some input regarding the choices in aftermarket lozenge decals. I have no intention of starting a "Lozenge War". But, what the hell... I know that Aeromaster 4 color is very bright and the offerings from Koster and Propag seem somewhat more subdued, but how about the Aeromaster 5 color? I took a look at the decals that came with Tom's Modelworks Pfalz D XII and these look "okay". Should I consider them or are they destined for scrap in lieu of Americal offerings? Again, your thoughts and input are greatly appreciated. Joe ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 21:33:27 EDT From: mbittner@juno.com (Matthew E Bittner) To: wwi Subject: Re: KAE SSW DIV update Message-ID: <19960927.202945.4447.0.mbittner@juno.com> On Fri, 27 Sep 1996 08:57:59 -0400 Joseph Gentile writes: > So, Charles D., Joey V., Greg and Matt B., You once again > have my sincere thanks. As an aside, Matt...Love that DR > I. It's, so, it's so you man. Hey, easy there. ;-) It was just a whim, and since then I got another for Christmas (the Jacobs one - go figure ;-)) which I would like to convert in an F.I. Anybody have an extra Roseparts conversion set they're willing to sell? Matt mbittner@juno.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Sep 96 20:51:32 PST From: "Shelley Goodwin" To: wwi Subject: Re[2]: Pfalz Manifolds Message-ID: <9608278438.AA843882730@mx.Ricochet.net> Erik, Thanks. Riordan (alias Ridan,Darius, etc) ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Re: Pfalz Manifolds Author: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu at Internet Date: 9/27/96 10:03 AM On Thu, 26 Sep 1996, Shelley Goodwin wrote: > I'll keep posting my inquiry on Pfalz manifolds until it is answered > or someone otherwise persuades me to cease. > All right, dang it-- I'll dig into this 'un, seeing how I just got a new Pfalz from Herr Mattness.... ;^) My initial *guess*, given the unit's placement and function, is for cast iron or light steel of some grade. We shall see.... Cheers, Erik :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: "...Then lobbest Thou thy Holy Hand-grenade of Antioc towards thy Foe, who, not being in My sight, shall snuff it...." "...AMEN...." ............................................................................. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 23:54:35 -0400 (EDT) From: bucky@mail.prolog.net (Mary-Ann/Michael) To: wwi, Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Lozenge Decals Message-ID: <199609280354.XAA04718@ns1.ptd.net> At 06:59 PM 9/27/96 -0400, Joseph Gentile wrote: >Still being relatively new to this list I would like some input regarding >the choices in aftermarket lozenge decals. I have no intention of starting >a "Lozenge War". But, what the hell... Joe It"ll be interesting to see if there is a fight or not. I've been partial of late to the Americal/Gryphon lozenge. The colors look right. The only problems is that they go on a little difficult. I've been underpainting them with a dark blue that blends in well if there's a small gap, tear, etc. Mike Muth ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Sep 96 21:31:07 PST From: "Shelley Goodwin" To: wwi Subject: Re: Lozenge Decals Message-ID: <9608278438.AA843885010@mx.Ricochet.net> Joe, I'm facing a similar dilemma; I've an Eduard D.VIII, and the lozenge decals are so confused that the kit's undersurface 4-C is a closer match to uppersurface of same. This would merely be 1/2-assed if they supplied you with enough to do the uppersurfaces-which they don't. So, I spent a little time nosing (noseing?) around a local shop and discovered that, according to my meager references, Aeromaster's *upper* 4-C is way off, as is Superscale. However, Am's *under* is closer to being correct. I'm about to give in to the inevitable and order some Americal stuff. If you want accuracy, there seems to be little else to do about it. Riordan ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Lozenge Decals Author: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu at Internet Date: 9/27/96 4:00 PM Still being relatively new to this list I would like some input regarding the choices in aftermarket lozenge decals. I have no intention of starting a "Lozenge War". But, what the hell... I know that Aeromaster 4 color is very bright and the offerings from Koster and Propag seem somewhat more subdued, but how about the Aeromaster 5 color? I took a look at the decals that came with Tom's Modelworks Pfalz D XII and these look "okay". Should I consider them or are they destined for scrap in lieu of Americal offerings? Again, your thoughts and input are greatly appreciated. Joe ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 28 Sep 1996 12:58:42 +0800 (GMT+0800) From: "Valenciano . Jose" To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Help! Message-ID: > Jose wrote: > > >Help! I know we have covered this topic before, how do I strip acrylic > >paint from a kit without turning the plastic to goo? Brake fluid? Do I > >soak for a few minutes or hours? And if I use that should I clean it > >with anything special afterwards? I've used washing machine soap powder. Mix some into water. Dip the painted part in. Wait for about an hour and all the paint has dissolved off the plastic. ********************************************************************* Joey Valenciano WW1 modeller, teacher, jazz musician, joeyval@pusit.admu.edu.ph sitarist tel. (632) 921-26-75 Metro-Manila, Philippines "The more you know, the more you don't know." ********************************************************************* ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 28 Sep 1996 13:02:18 +0800 (GMT+0800) From: "Valenciano . Jose" To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: KAE SSW DIV update Message-ID: On Fri, 27 Sep 1996, Joseph Gentile wrote: > Anyway, I hope that I was able to give back something to you all. You certainly have. Nice tip! ********************************************************************* Joey Valenciano WW1 modeller, teacher, jazz musician, joeyval@pusit.admu.edu.ph sitarist tel. (632) 921-26-75 Metro-Manila, Philippines "The more you know, the more you don't know." ********************************************************************* ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 272 *********************