WWI Digest 253 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Stand Slot Filler by bciciora@pitneysoft.com 2) Hold off on ordering Ferko books by "PETER KILDUFF, UNIVERSITY RELATIONS, 21791" 3) Re: Nieuport Naming Conventions by Erik Pilawskii 4) Re: Merlin Gotha by "Valenciano . Jose" 5) Re: Merlin Gotha by "Valenciano . Jose" 6) Saturday, 9 September 1916, Paris, Buc by "Marian Hollinger, Bradley Omanson" 7) Re[2]: Book Plug by "Shelley Goodwin" 8) Re: Book Plug by huggins@Onramp.NET (John Huggins) 9) Filling the slot by bucky@postoffice.ptd.net (Mary-Ann/Michael) 10) Super glues by hartc@spot.Colorado.EDU (Charles Hart) 11) Re: Filling the slot by NPWE28A@prodigy.com ( KENNETH L HAGERUP) 12) Re: Nieuport Naming Conventions by bshatzer@orednet.org (Bill Shatzer) 13) Re: Book Plug by "Valenciano . Jose" 14) Re: Filling the slot by "Valenciano . Jose" 15) Filling the slot by bucky@postoffice.ptd.net (Mary-Ann/Michael) 16) Re: Nieuport Naming Conventions by "Marian Hollinger, Bradley Omanson" 17) Re: Nieuport Naming Conventions by Rob 18) Re: Nieuport Naming Conventions by hartc@spot.Colorado.EDU (Charles Hart) 19) Re: Filling the slot by Rob 20) Re: Book Plug by Rob 21) Books by John Snyder 22) Re: Nieuport Naming Conventions by "Marian Hollinger, Bradley Omanson" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 9 Sep 96 12:21 CDT From: bciciora@pitneysoft.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Stand Slot Filler Message-ID: Mike asked: >I'm starting the Glencoe Pfalz soon, so if anyone has suggestion on how >to fill the hole so it doesn't show, Id appreciate it. I cut some scrap sprue about the size of the slot and glued it to one of the fuselage halves. When I joined the halves, I used liquid cement liberally to help fuse the slot area. Finally, I used gap-filling superglue and accelerator to close up any missed spots. My Pfalz shows no sign of any seams, or stand slot. Superglue is great. I had been away from modelling a long time, like you. I struggled to get good results with putty until I found out about superglue. It really fills seams better than anything else. Bill C. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 13:30:26 -0400 (EDT) From: "PETER KILDUFF, UNIVERSITY RELATIONS, 21791" To: wwi Subject: Hold off on ordering Ferko books Message-ID: <960909133026.20246577@CCSUA.CTSTATEU.EDU> Folks: Please hold off on ordering the Ed Ferko "Fliegertruppe" books. This is still a very trying time for Ed's widow and family. They have other things to do these days. My sense is that a batch of orders will just burden them further. As noted in an earlier message, I'm trying to find the best way to meet everyone's needs. So, please hold off on writing to the Ferko family. Peter Kilduff ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 12:15:03 -0700 (PDT) From: Erik Pilawskii To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Nieuport Naming Conventions Message-ID: On Sun, 8 Sep 1996, Rodd Perrin wrote: > I am after a bit of advice from those who know more about these sort of > things than I do...... > Heh, well... I'll not take credit for that, but.... > In going through my references, I have noticed that there seems to be a > number of naming conventions used for Nieuport aircraft. The ones that > confuse me are: > > 1 - Is there a difference between an aircraft listed as a, say, 17 C.1 and > one shown as a 17, or a 17 C ? If so what? > AFAIK, all of these designations refer to the self-same machine. The letter "C" stands for "Chasse" ('fighter'), whilst the designation C.1 means a 'Chasse' type, one seater. The full and official designation for the '17 is probably then Nieuport N.17C.1 (or XVIIC.1). > 2 - Some of my references state that an aircraft is a 'Nie 17'. Is this > shorthand for 'Nieuport' or is this used to indicate that the aircraft was > produced by someone else under license ie like Fokker and Fokker(OAW) or > Fokker(Alb)? > I don't know if production of the N.17 was sub-contracted throughout France, but there appears to be no change in designation. The "Nie" is a simple abbreviation, I think. > Finally, this is for clarification really, if a Nieuport type is listed as > a 'X' does this mean that it is a two-seater, where a single seater would > be shown as a '10'? > The French practice seemed to be that, at first, Roman numerals were used for Nieuport machines. Often you see the French using "N.XVII". The use of Arabic numerals appears to be the work of the Brits, primarily, though admittedly it was subsequently taken up by the French themselves (at which point, I'm not sure; but there are post-war French machines still using Roman number schemes, and I have seen documents in French from the 1914-18 period with things like Nie.24_bis_). Cheers, Erik :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: "...Then lobbest Thou thy Holy Hand-grenade of Antioc towards thy Foe, who, not being in My sight, shall snuff it...." "...AMEN...." .............................................................................. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 07:22:32 +0800 (GMT+0800) From: "Valenciano . Jose" To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Merlin Gotha Message-ID: On Sun, 8 Sep 1996, Shelley Goodwin wrote: > I am beginning to appreciate good vacforms, even though I have yet to > build one. Hi Riordan Try one of Sierra's offerings. I'd recommend the Brandenburg W.29 as a start. It's a monoplane (fewer parts to align and put together). The fuselage is boxy thus also easier to align. The parts fit together well. And most importantly, its in the right scale! ********************************************************************* Joey Valenciano WW1 modeller, teacher, jazz musician, joeyval@pusit.admu.edu.ph sitarist tel. (632) 921-26-75 Metro-Manila, Philippines "The more you know, the more you don't know." ********************************************************************* ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 07:24:34 +0800 (GMT+0800) From: "Valenciano . Jose" To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Merlin Gotha Message-ID: On Mon, 9 Sep 1996, Jesse Thorn wrote: > Speaking of....I thought Sierra Scale models was going to do a 1/48 Gotha > vac. Have I been sniffing too much glue again or has anyone else heard > about this rumour? It's true. Saw this news on their flyer. But it might take some time. Hopefully not as much time as the Eduard Pfalz D.III !!! ********************************************************************* Joey Valenciano WW1 modeller, teacher, jazz musician, joeyval@pusit.admu.edu.ph sitarist tel. (632) 921-26-75 Metro-Manila, Philippines "The more you know, the more you don't know." ********************************************************************* ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 09 Sep 1996 20:33:41 -0700 From: "Marian Hollinger, Bradley Omanson" To: wwi Subject: Saturday, 9 September 1916, Paris, Buc Message-ID: <3234E195.4F1D@host.dmsc.net> Good day. Went to see Colonel Girod, Comdt. of Aviation with Major Parker in early a.m. and rec'd permission for me to go to school at Pau instead of Avord. Went out to Buc after to get papers etc. there. No orders there for me to go to Pau so papers were made out for Avord. Had to let it go as it was and bid farewell to the fellows & the officer and came back to Paris to Roosevelt. Decided to wait til tomorrow to go to Aviation Office and get orders to go direct to Pau. ********************* E.C.C. Genet, Lafayette Escadrille, his diaries [Bradley Omanson ] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 09 Sep 96 18:22:53 PST From: "Shelley Goodwin" To: wwi Subject: Re[2]: Book Plug Message-ID: <9608098423.AA842318530@mx.Ricochet.net> Mike- I'm in the middle of the Glencoe kit right now, and I'll probably end up cutting a rectangular plug, glueing it *almost* flush w/ the fuselage & then sanding it smooth. Note that the fuselage is overly deep forward of the wing, and removing 1/16" from each mating surface was recommended by Rimel in an article on the Aurora kit back in '70s. To accomplish this fuselagectomy successfully,I found it necessary to radius the nose and remove the 'panels' between the wing fillets (which also need work) at the lower wing attatchment point in order to allow for the mating surfaces to be bent together. Also note that the lower wing angle of incidence is wrong, the trailing edge being quite a bit lower than it oughtta. Then there's the undercarriage, which is a tad to far forward & attached about 1/8" too high in front. Fin/rudder, wheels, cockpit padding,front engine cowl & struts too thick/wrong dimensions, fuselage aperature not long enough to accept scale engine, incorrect exhaust, prop/spinner unuseable. No Pfalz or airscrew emblems on decal sheet. All that having been said, expect a lot of time for bodywork Good Luck- Riordan ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Re: Book Plug Author: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu at Internet Date: 9/9/96 5:07 AM At 12:03 PM 9/8/96 -0400, Riordan wrote > > How is the Glencoe Nie.28 for buildability/accuracy? I had a look at > it once and it didn't look too bad, but I wasn't particularly well > informed at the time. And, as everyone knows, there are many things in > a kit that cannot be dicovered without careful study/construction. I built one of these for the OTF seminar. I thought it looked pretty good until I unpacked it and it had broken into about 45 pieces.(I know, perfect for a diorama ;-) ). The only big problem I had putting it together was filling in the display stand slot in the bottom. I'm not real good with putty and am unfamiliar with the other ways to fill things up. I'm starting the Glencoe Pfalz soon, so if anyone has suggestion on how the fill the hole so it doesn't show, Id appreciate it.(Apologies for this taking onn a somewhat obscene nature ;-)).) Mike Muth ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 20:30:23 -0500 (CDT) From: huggins@Onramp.NET (John Huggins) To: wwi Subject: Re: Book Plug Message-ID: > I built one of these for the OTF seminar. I thought it looked pretty >good until I unpacked it and it had broken into about 45 pieces.(I know, >perfect for a diorama ;-) ). The only big problem I had putting it together >was filling in the display stand slot in the bottom. I'm not real good with >putty and am unfamiliar with the other ways to fill things up. I'm starting >the Glencoe Pfalz soon, so if anyone has suggestion on how the fill the hole >so it doesn't show, Id appreciate it.(Apologies for this taking onn a >somewhat obscene nature ;-)).) Mike, Try this one. After the fuselage is glued together, glue the stand in place with Ten-x and let dry. When dry, cut or saw the bottom portion of the stand off. File the remaining bit of stand flush with the fuselage. Use a coating of super glue that has been quick set with accelerator to fill the small pin holes. File and then polish the area where the super glue has been applied. The super glue must be filed within 1 hour of application. After that it begins to really set up rock hard and becomes a bit difficult to file or sand.. This also works for filling wing roots and other areas where there is a small crack or even sink holes. John ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 23:06:38 -0400 (EDT) From: bucky@postoffice.ptd.net (Mary-Ann/Michael) To: wwi, Multiple recipients of list Subject: Filling the slot Message-ID: <199609100306.XAA01383@ns1.ptd.net> Riordan, John, Bill & Joe Thanks for the suggestions. OK, I'll admit it...what is super glue? Same thing as crazy glue? I can"t get crazy glue to get anything to stick together unless it is a tight fit, like with my fingers. Any brand names? Same questions on evergreen stuff. I know, this really shows my ignorance:-( Mike Muth ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 21:23:14 -0700 From: hartc@spot.Colorado.EDU (Charles Hart) To: wwi Subject: Super glues Message-ID: Mike, Super Glue is as you suggest, crazy glue. Both are names for a variety of glues also called cyanoacryaltes. They come in a variety of brands and styles, like "Gap filling super glue", a kind of super glue that is more gelatinous in consistency etc. There are also "accelerators", compounds (probably not environmentally friendly) that accelerate the setting of the glue, they usually come in a spray can. Spray it on, apply the glue then get the parts together before the whole thing sets up. Glued fingers can be undone by another compound, though I don't know its name. I think that fingernail polish remover or acetone will also release super glue from places you don't want it. Just watch it with these compounds around styrene. Some time ago, Fine Scale modeler did an article on superglues. You might want to see if you can search it out. HTH Charles >Riordan, John, Bill & Joe > > Thanks for the suggestions. > OK, I'll admit it...what is super glue? Same thing as crazy glue? I >can"t get crazy glue to get anything to stick together unless it is a tight >fit, like with my fingers. Any brand names? > Same questions on evergreen stuff. I know, this really shows my >ignorance:-( >Mike Muth ------------------------------ Date: 09 Sep 96 From: NPWE28A@prodigy.com ( KENNETH L HAGERUP) To: bucky@postoffice.ptd.net, wwi Subject: Re: Filling the slot Message-ID: <199609100412.AAA12378@mime2.prodigy.com> -- [ From: Kenneth Hagerup * EMC.Ver #2.5.1 ] -- Mike wrote: > Riordan, John, Bill & Joe > > Thanks for the suggestions. > OK, I'll admit it...what is super glue? Same thing as crazy glue? I > can"t get crazy glue to get anything to stick together unless it is a tight > fit, like with my fingers. Any brand names? > Same questions on evergreen stuff. I know, this really shows my > ignorance:-( Krazy Glue is one brand of super glue, more accurately known as cyanoacrylate, or CA for short. It is available from a lot of different manufacturers. My favorite is Insta-Cure+, which I get at the local HobbyTown. It comes in varios viscosities, from a very runny, watery consisteny, to a much thicker gap filling variety. I prefer the thicker stuff. I usually apply it with a tootpick or length of stretched sprue. Superglues have a shelf life, and the runnier types eventually thicken up in the bottle. A little goes a long way so you might want to get one of the smaller size bottles (1 oz. or less). There are also several accelerators you can buy to speed the drying process. These usually come in a small spray bottle. Some plastics react with the accelerator, but I think there is a new brand which is supposed to be styrene friendly. Evergreen makes a huge variety of sheet and strip styrene in assorted widths and thicknesses. Model railroaders use a lot of it (and model railroad stores are a good place to find it). They also make scribed styrene. (The N scale boxcar siding makes great wooden decks for 1/700 ship models.) Hope this helps, Ken ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 23:04:05 -0700 From: bshatzer@orednet.org (Bill Shatzer) To: wwi Subject: Re: Nieuport Naming Conventions Message-ID: <199609100604.AA26832@ednet1.orednet.org> Erik wrote: >On Sun, 8 Sep 1996, Rodd Perrin wrote: >> In going through my references, I have noticed that there seems to be a >> number of naming conventions used for Nieuport aircraft. The ones that >> confuse me are: >> >> 1 - Is there a difference between an aircraft listed as a, say, 17 C.1 and >> one shown as a 17, or a 17 C ? If so what? >> > AFAIK, all of these designations refer to the self-same machine. The >letter "C" stands for "Chasse" ('fighter'), whilst the designation C.1 >means a 'Chasse' type, one seater. The full and official designation for >the '17 is probably then Nieuport N.17C.1 (or XVIIC.1). Wasn't there a Nie 17 bis? What the heck was -that- and how did it differ from the run-of-the-mill Nie 17 C.1? Cheers, -- -Bill Shatzer bshatzer@orednet.org- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 14:40:02 +0800 (GMT+0800) From: "Valenciano . Jose" To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Book Plug Message-ID: On Mon, 9 Sep 1996, Mary-Ann/Michael wrote: > I'm starting > the Glencoe Pfalz soon, so if anyone has suggestion on how the fill the hole > so it doesn't show, Id appreciate it.(Apologies for this taking onn a > somewhat obscene nature ;-)).) > Mike Muth I'd introduce a fair amount of superglue into the cavity, then insert peices of scrap plastic sheet to close it up. You're left with a fuselage that looks like its guts were sticking out. When the glue dries shave off as much of the plastic as possible then sand the whole thing down. ********************************************************************* Joey Valenciano WW1 modeller, teacher, jazz musician, joeyval@pusit.admu.edu.ph sitarist tel. (632) 921-26-75 Metro-Manila, Philippines "The more you know, the more you don't know." ********************************************************************* ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 18:03:17 +0800 (GMT+0800) From: "Valenciano . Jose" To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Filling the slot Message-ID: On Mon, 9 Sep 1996, Mary-Ann/Michael wrote: > OK, I'll admit it...what is super glue? Same thing as crazy glue? Yes! super glue, crazy glue, cyanoacrylate.... > I > can"t get crazy glue to get anything to stick together unless it is a tight > fit, like with my fingers. That's because the stuff was originally designed to glue skin together, a kind of chemical stitching. Vietnam War, if you got cut in the field, it was dab, dab instead of sew, sew. Used to be a big fan of liquid cement but use super glue most of the time now. Especially on joints that need sanding. If you apply liquid cement liberally into a joint, it could make the plastic unstable (soft) for quite sometime. Don't have that problem with super glue. > Same questions on evergreen stuff. I know, this really shows my > ignorance:-( Evergreen = sheet plastic brand. You know those thin plastic covers on disposeable cups? The kind you get from a fast food stand? It has a hundred uses, one of which is to fill gaps! Apply super glue into the crack and insert the thin plastic as a solid filler. ********************************************************************* Joey Valenciano WW1 modeller, teacher, jazz musician, joeyval@pusit.admu.edu.ph sitarist tel. (632) 921-26-75 Metro-Manila, Philippines "The more you know, the more you don't know." ********************************************************************* ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 07:05:28 -0400 (EDT) From: bucky@postoffice.ptd.net (Mary-Ann/Michael) To: wwi, Multiple recipients of list Subject: Filling the slot Message-ID: <199609101105.HAA16591@ns1.ptd.net> Thanks to all for answering my questions. Now, off to the model store to buy even more stuff. God, this list can be awfully costly!!!!!!!!!!;-) Mike Muth ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 08:34:38 -0700 From: "Marian Hollinger, Bradley Omanson" To: wwi Subject: Re: Nieuport Naming Conventions Message-ID: <32358A8E.3EAA@host.dmsc.net> Bill Shatzer wrote: > > Erik wrote: > > >On Sun, 8 Sep 1996, Rodd Perrin wrote: > > >> In going through my references, I have noticed that there seems to be a > >> number of naming conventions used for Nieuport aircraft. The ones that > >> confuse me are: > >> > >> 1 - Is there a difference between an aircraft listed as a, say, 17 C.1 and > >> one shown as a 17, or a 17 C ? If so what? > >> > > AFAIK, all of these designations refer to the self-same machine. The > >letter "C" stands for "Chasse" ('fighter'), whilst the designation C.1 > >means a 'Chasse' type, one seater. The full and official designation for > >the '17 is probably then Nieuport N.17C.1 (or XVIIC.1). > > Wasn't there a Nie 17 bis? What the heck was -that- and how did it > differ from the run-of-the-mill Nie 17 C.1? > > Cheers, > > -- > -Bill Shatzer bshatzer@orednet.org- I just put that question to the folks at Rosemont-- I was ordering replacement parts for Nieuport 11s & 17s. The "bis" designation has to do with the fuselage shape. One is a squared-off fuselage, the other is rounded-- though now I forget which is which. I ordered both, along with the Datafile Special book on Nieuports, which I figured would tell me. Bradley ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 08:50:02 +0000 From: Rob To: wwi Subject: Re: Nieuport Naming Conventions Message-ID: <9609100838.aa07916@scosysv.speechsys.com> Bradley writes > The "bis" designation has to do with the fuselage shape. One is > a squared-off fuselage, the other is rounded. The "bis" designation actually means "again" or, more precisely, "a second time" (it's what you shout when you want to hear an opera singer sing a nice passage over again. It is roughly equivalent to the "B" in "F-15B." In Italian aviation usage, bis would be followed by "ter" ("three") and "quater" (four). Rob, robj@speechsys.com. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 09:11:35 -0700 From: hartc@spot.Colorado.EDU (Charles Hart) To: wwi Subject: Re: Nieuport Naming Conventions Message-ID: To continue a thread: >Bill Shatzer wrote: >> >> Erik wrote: >> >> >On Sun, 8 Sep 1996, Rodd Perrin wrote: >> >> >> In going through my references, I have noticed that there seems to be a >> >> number of naming conventions used for Nieuport aircraft. The ones that >> >> confuse me are: >> >> >> >> 1 - Is there a difference between an aircraft listed as a, say, 17 C.1 and >> >> one shown as a 17, or a 17 C ? If so what? >> >> >> > AFAIK, all of these designations refer to the self-same machine. The >> >letter "C" stands for "Chasse" ('fighter'), whilst the designation C.1 >> >means a 'Chasse' type, one seater. The full and official designation for >> >the '17 is probably then Nieuport N.17C.1 (or XVIIC.1). >> >> Wasn't there a Nie 17 bis? What the heck was -that- and how did it >> differ from the run-of-the-mill Nie 17 C.1? >> Bradley followed up: > >I just put that question to the folks at Rosemont-- I was ordering >replacement parts >for Nieuport 11s & 17s. The "bis" designation has to do with the fuselage >shape. One is >a squared-off fuselage, the other is rounded-- though now I forget which >is which. I >ordered both, along with the Datafile Special book on Nieuports, which I >figured would >tell me. The "rounded" Nieuport fuselages are from later versions of this fighter and not the Ni 17 bis. It was the Ni 24 and later 27 that had stringers added to the fuselage frame to give it the rounded appearance. Be advised that there are two Windsock Nieuport Specials, the first covers Ni 11s through 17s, the second covers Ni.21s through 27s. This was an incomplete arrangement to me though, it leaves uncovered (so to speak) Ni 10s and 12, 2-seaters I know. This also stuck the Ni.28 into its own Datafile. There was a useful little book of photos of Niwuports, all Nieuports of WW I by Arms & Armour Press a few years ago, part of the Vintage Warbirds Series. A useful book of photos and cheaper than even one of the Datafile specials. Charles hartc@spot.colorado.edu ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 09:07:31 +0000 From: Rob To: wwi Subject: Re: Filling the slot Message-ID: <9609100855.aa08045@scosysv.speechsys.com> More comments re superglue: I also think this is the greatest for seam filling. Use the thickened, slower-setting, "gap-filling" type. This does not require a perfectly fitted joint, and you can handle it longer before it bonds (though not much longer). When everything is in place, apply some superglue accelerant (available in hobby shops and well-equipped hardware stores) for an instant bond. Usually they say to spray or spritz it on, but I find that the stuff eats plastic. So I just apply a little with a Q-tip or toothpick. It takes very little. Scrape and sand the joint right after the glue sets. At this point, the glue is about the same hardness as styrene (the beauty of the method), so you can get a beautifully smooth seam with little damage to surrounding parts. If you wait, the stuff gets rock hard, and you risk doing some damage to the surrounding plastic when you try to smooth the glue out. I wouldn't use superglue for assembly of plastic components, though. It has no tack, so it can be hard to keep parts aligned while you grab for the tape and clamps. Worse, the joints are weak. Yes, they are phenomenally strong in tension. But they have no shear strength at all. A sideways blow will break the pieces apart. Liquid styrene cement welds the pieces together. Once the solvent evaporates, the joint is, in effect, gone. Superglue is, of course, invaluable for gluing dissimilar materials and metal. I have built large, triangulated structures (a 1/35-scale WACO CG4A glider) from brass and aluminum tubing using superglue. The triangulation mitigates the glue's lack of shear strength. ButI, in any case, I always pin parts that I intend to attach with superglue. I drill a hole and insert a piece of stiff wire. The mechanical connection and the larger surface area greatly improves strength. Finally, some safety info. Superglue vapor is notoriously irritating to the eyes. Acetone (nail polish remover) will debond fingers. The curing process also generates a lot of heat. If you want to put a lot down, build it up in layers. If you dump alot in and zap it with accelerant, the glue will bubble up and, in extreme cases, the plastic may even soften. I've actually been burned by the heat from an overly large superglue "pour." Rob, robj@speechsys.com. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 09:22:30 +0000 From: Rob To: wwi Subject: Re: Book Plug Message-ID: <9609100910.aa08174@scosysv.speechsys.com> Mike wrote: > > I'm starting > > the Glencoe Pfalz soon, so if anyone has suggestion on how the fill the hole > > so it doesn't show, Id appreciate it.(Apologies for this taking onn a > > somewhat obscene nature ;-)).) > > Mike Muth The secret to a good joint is to use materials of similar hardness and to disturb the surround plastic as little as possible. I would cut a piece of thickish styrene strip slightly larger than the slot. Then I would sand the edges to taper inward slightly. Then I'd glue it in place with liquid cement. Insert it so it sticks up slightly above the surround fuselage. When the cement was absolutely dry, I'd carve and sand the plug smooth. This should give a perfect joint. But if it didn't, I'd use the minimum amount of superglue to fill the gaps. Rob, robj@speechsys.com. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 08:44:21 -0800 From: John Snyder To: wwi Subject: Books Message-ID: Just received a catalog from Paul Gaudette Books of Tucson, seller of new and used tomes, and noticed the following WW1 offerings: Franks, Norman. Who Downed the Aces in WW1? 256pp, 80 B/W photos. $32.95 Evans, Martin Marix. The Battles of the Somme. 96pp, 100 B/W illus. $19.95 Durkota, Darcey & Kullkov. The Imperial Russian Air Service: Famous Pilots and Aircraft of World War I. 545pp, 834 B/W illus, 157 color illus. $79.95 Fletcher, David. British Tanks in the First World War. 60pp, B/W illus. $12.95 Fletcher, David. War Cars: British Armoured Cars in the First World War. 97pp, 195 B/W illus. $9.95 Hayzlett, Jan. Hunting with Richthofen: The Bodenschatz Diaries--Sixteen Months of Battle with JG Freiherr Von Richthofen No. 1. 240pp, 60 B/W illus. $34.95 Franks, Giblin & McCrery. Under the Guns of the Red Baron: The Complete Record of von Richthofen's Victories and Victims in Graphic Detail. 224pp, 190 B/W illus, maps & line art, 10 color paintings. $35.00 In the catalog the store announces, "Currently we are just finishing up on a comprehensive Vietnam War list. After that we expect to catalog all of the books in the Armored-Fighting-Vehicles-& Units section...and then probably the WWI Aviation section." Since I model ships, don't know if any of the above is new or of interest to list members, but I just thought I'd pass this along. John jsnyder@trmx3.dot.ca.gov ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 11:52:06 -0700 From: "Marian Hollinger, Bradley Omanson" To: wwi Subject: Re: Nieuport Naming Conventions Message-ID: <3235B8D6.5101@host.dmsc.net> Charles Hart wrote: >> > Bradley followed up: > > > > >I just put that question to the folks at Rosemont-- I was ordering > >replacement parts > >for Nieuport 11s & 17s. The "bis" designation has to do with the fuselage > >shape. One is > >a squared-off fuselage, the other is rounded-- though now I forget which > >is which. I > >ordered both, along with the Datafile Special book on Nieuports, which I > >figured would > >tell me. > Charles replied: > The "rounded" Nieuport fuselages are from later versions of this > fighter and not the Ni 17 bis. It was the Ni 24 and later 27 that had > stringers added to the fuselage frame to give it the rounded appearance. > I didn't THINK I had seen a Ni 17 with a rounded fuselage-- but this still leaves unanswered: what is a "Ni 17 bis"?-- and why does Rosemont stock a rounded fuselage replacement for a Ni 17? Bradley ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 253 *********************