Re: Vacu-forming

Bill Shatzer (aw177@freenet.carleton.ca)
Thu, 15 Sep 1994 03:01:46 -0400

The convential wisdom is that the single surface vacuform wings are
the most accurate - the trailing edge is (or can be made) suitably
thin and the wing itself is scale thickness. If you've got
"negative" ribs on the undersurface, you've probably got to fill
them flat (green putty, milliput, streached sprue, etc., etc.)
but with most aircraft, undersurface wing detail isn't required.

Working from memory, what I've got available for sale or trade
in the Merlin kits are DFW D.I, Albatros floatplane fighter W-??,
Pfalz triplane, DH-9a, Fokker D-8, Sopwith 1 1/2 Strutter,
Nieuport XI. If any of these sound interesting, let me know and
I'll go check the "soot and smoke hospital" and see what, if
anything, survived. I may have a couple more that don't spring
immediately to mind - I'd forgot I had the Sopwith 1 1/2
strutter until I read your note regarding the Rareplanes Sopwith
1 1/2 strutter.

Cheers, Bill
PS: And the Breguet 14's but they're not for sale unless
you want make an offer that is absurd!

>OK,
>
> I've been intimidated long enough by this rareplanes Sopwith 1 1/2
>strutter kit I have - time to ask for some advice.
>
> How do you guys hamdle the underside of the wings on vacu-form
>kits? Do you fill them in with Squadrom green putty and hand carve
>and sculpt the rib detail (oh the pain)? I can;t imagine anyone wanting
>to make a vacu-form kit without doing something about this problem.
>
>Thanks,
>Al
>
>
>

--


"Just another road kill on the information superhighway."


Bill Shatzer - bshatzer@ednet1.osl.or.gov - aw177@Freenet.carleton.CA