All modifications are based on the ESCI kit only, since it
is easier to modify an ESCI Nie17 than a Revell one. Note that
there are also notes on how to "correct" Rosemont's replacment
parts.
Modifying the upper wing (refer to the scale plans in Nieuport
Fighters, Vol. 1):
ESCI steps:
Step (1). Thin trailing edges.
Step (2). Lightly sand away all "fabric representation".
Step (3). Cut the wing in half, and add some dihedral.
Step (4). Remove approximately 2mm from each wing tip.
Step (5). Correct the outlines for the ailerons.
Correcting the Rosemont replacement wing:
Step (1). Lightly sand away all "fabric representation".
Step (2). Correct the outlines for the ailerons.
Modifying the lower wing (refer to the scale plans in Nieuport
Fighters, Vol. 1):
Step (1). Thin trailing edges.
Step (2). Lightly sand away all "fabric representation".
Step (3). Cut off the outer portions of the lower wing at the
"fuselage section", which is the portion of the lower wing where
the wing sections appear to meet part of a "molded in" fuselage.
Step (4). Glue the center section onto the fuselage (after you
complete the modifications to the fuselage) and fill in the gap to
the fuselage line.
Step (5). Once all modifications to the fuselage are complete,
and Step 4 is finished, add the outer wing portions directly to
the fuselage, ensuring the correct amount of dihedral.
Step (6). Remove approximately 2mm from each end.
Step (7). Correct wing tips.
Step (8). Since there is more of a dihedral on the Nie11 than the
Nie17, the ribs will no longer be "parallel" with the fuselage.
You can live with it, or sand off the old ribs, and replace in a
suitable fashion.
Modifying the fuselage (refer to the scale plans in Nieuport
Fighters, Vol. 1):
ESCI steps:
Step (1). File down the nose of the fuselage to remove the
"bulges" of the 17 leaving only a small portion of it right in
front of the cowling. Or, cut out the entire front fuselage where
the "bulges" are and add straight, .020" card stock for the
fuselage sides. Then make the exhaust "bulges" from plastic card
stock, or putty.
Step (2). Dependant on the machine being modeled, remove the headrest.
Step (3). Add the rigging holes in the rear fuselage for the tail
rigging.
Correcting the Rosemont replacement fuselage:
Step (1). Fill in "panel lines" on both sides of the fuselage.
Rescribe in their correct locations.
Step (2). Fill in "panel line" underneath the fuselage connecting
the two incorrect side fuselage "panel lines". Rescribe.
Step (3). Add a small wedge of .020" plastic to the rear,
underside portion of the fuselage. The best referral is to study
the scale drawings and determine the size of the wedge from this.
Once the wedge is on it will need to be blended in.
Step (4). Correct the locations of the aileron crank-arms holes I
upper fuselage.
Step (5). If wanted, fill in "engine panel lines", and replace
with .005" thick plastic to better represent the engine access
panels on each side of the fuselage.
Modifying the cowling:
Step (1). Remove the bottom fourth to expose the lower part of the
engine.
Step (2). Remove the molded in engine, adding an Aeroclub or
Rosemont Le Rhone 80 hp engine.
Step (3). Sand down the edges of the cowl to scale thickness.
Alternatively, you can purchase the Rosemont replacement cowling
(which is included with their 11 fuselage) and forego these
modifications.
Modifying smaller details:
Step (1). All tail surfaces will have to be scratchbuilt.
Step (2). Most stuts will have to be either heavily modified, or
scratchbuilt.
Nieuport 16
The only differences between the 11 and the 16 are the
addition of the headrest (dependent on the machine), and a
different engine, a 110 hp Le Rhone. It is very important to
study photographs of the machine you're building to get everything
right. Once again, Rosemont comes to the rescue with a
replacement fuselage and cowling.