>> Finally, the question. I've never build a model with
>> photoetched parts and was wondering if there is any
>> preparation I need to do before assembly or painting
>
> yes, I recommend getting a very bright light to see the damn
> pieces with, and make sure that you have a fermented
> vegetable beverage ready and for when you're done.
>
> Seriously, just take the bits of the "tree" as you need
> them; don't take them all off at the same time. I remove
> mine with a small wire cutter and cut as close to the piece
> as I can. I remove any offensive leftovers with the grinder
> on my dremel tool. (love to hear how others deal with this)
> Other than that there isn't any special prep that I do. I
> use CA glue. Sometimes gap filling, sometimes the regular
> stuff, depending. I usually apply it with half a stretched
> sprue. Zip kicker is great to freeze it in place. You can
> apply that with a junky paint brush or a mashed toothpick. I
> wouldn't spray it; it only takes a touch of it to do the
> job.
After annealing - and usually painting, if not an exterior piece - I
remove parts from the "tree" as needed. I usually use my Xuron
plastic "nipper" (which can dull the blades, but is a clean cut) if I
can get in, or I use a "straight blade" in my Xacto handle that can
be pushed down; in other words, the blade is parallel with the "butt"
of the handle. If I need to clean any parts, I use a "modified"
hemostat: Using a Dremel, I "sanded" away the teeth, to leave two
smooth edges. The advantage to the hemostat is that you can "clasp"
it shut, tight enough so the part doesn't move as you file. I have a
file that I-can't-remember-where-I-got-it that works great on
photoetched. One swipe, and I'm usually done.
Matt
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Matthew Bittner WW1 Modeler, ecto subscriber, new dad,
meba@cso.com PowerBuilder developer; Omaha, Nebraska
Hickory Dickory Dock
Two Mice ran up the clock
The clock struck one
And the other escaped with minor injuries
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