Mind you, I've never actually replaced ribbing. But I am primarily an armor
modeler, who happens to like WWI stuff as well. When doing tanks, I often have
to replace damaged weld beads (from sanding and filling) or create weld beads
that should be there, but aren't. My technique for this is a firm, quicker-
setting putty such as Squadron White (my only use for white; I use green for
filling, or Dr. Microtools red. White is used almost exclusively for weld beads
and other fine details that have to be built up from the surface). Using
various Xacto blades (mainly #11 and #6), I build up a line of putty along the
edge I need it on. Then, using primarily the #6 (#6 is a blade with a 0.25"
cutting surface, that is about 15-18 degrees away from being a 90 degree
angle with the handle) I trim away excess material until I have a line about
1/32" wide and high. For weld beads, I then take the tip of the blade and
texture it. You wouldn't do this for ribbing. :-)
While this might work, I'll say up front that if/when I have to do ribbing,
I'll do Rimmel's technique.
Randy
--
^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^
Randy J. Ray -- U S WEST Technologies IAD/CSS/DPDS Phone: (303)595-2869
Denver, CO rjray@lookout.ecte.uswc.uswest.com
I don't suffer from insanity. I enjoy every minute of it.