I think this plane looks like a flying Oktoberfest tent. Maestro, crank up
the oompah-pah!!! In any case, it's my first Eduard "dark grey" plastic (the
stuff they've been using on the kits they've put out in the last year or so)
WW1 kit and it's a WINNER! Beautiful quality. No more jokes about crappy
simple injection kits. This baby went together without a hitch. So, whaddaya
say? Should we start a Wish List for Eduard? Anyone for a Halberstadt C.IV?
And where's this Walfisch everyone's been screaming about? BTW, radiator
pipes are bent brass rod (technique fully detailed on my website). Decals
are Aeromaster's "Albatros Pt.2" set, printed up, I believe, back in '95.
This kit is an Eduard, utilizing the superb etched brass included with
those kits. Structural wiring is done with magic markered fishing line.
Control line or other "show" wiring is done with .1mm stainless steel wire
The Albatros D.V is Hermann Goering's mount at Jasta 11 before he got his
white Fokker D.VII "pimpmobile". The headrest feature is somewhat unusual
for an Albatros, apparently. It may have even been order made for Goering,
but I'm not sure. I'd appreciate info on that, if anyone has any.
I have been unable to verify the Aviatik colors, as there is a dirth of
Austro-Hungarian air force material on the Web, but I think they're pretty
outrageous, in any case, and I love the way the plane looks. Also, most
sources seem to have Linke-Crawford's "L" marking as white on black. Does
anyone know the true story on this? As for the actual application of the
fuselage lozenge decal sheets, all I can recommend to everyone is to 1) pray
2) breath slowly and deeply 3) have a big bottle of decal softener on hand.
This is white-knuckle modeling at its best, folks. Who needs BASE jumping
off Yellowstone cliffs to risk death or arrest when Flashback provides us
with such thrills?
The Fokker D.VIII/E.V is another early Eduard effort. The brass is
excellent, but the injection molding is...well...you all know the drill.
5-color lozenge is Aeromaster. Most non-structural etching was attached onto
the lozenge decal with ordinary white glue, then tapped with a drop of
cyano. The plastic struts supplied with this kit were far too weak to be of
any use at all, so, after careful caliper measurements of the useless
struts, I cut up some vise-flattened micro brass piping with a soldered .3mm
brass rod core instead. Resulting joints are immensely strong. As the
Propagteam cowling decal (and most of the other decals in the kit, BTW)
shattered immediately upon being touched, I was forced to go the
tape'n'spray method. The ray-pattern on the cowling, however, proved to be
far too intricate and precise to be "eyeballed", so I was forced to go to
the computer for help! I tape measured circumferences at several
cross-sectional points on the cowling, counted up the tips on the box art,
then fed everything into Adobe Illustrator and PRESTO! Instant tape stencil!
I just lay my tape on top of the stencil, cut away, then taped and sprayed
the sucker up. My first CAD-supported model!
Here are some shots of the fabled full-scratch 1/48 Friedrichshafen G.IIIa
I've been promising so long.
The Hansa-Brandenburg kit would be a sheer nightmare for anyone who doesn't
have at least several years of regular building of simple-injection kits
under their belt. First of all, the strut lengths aren't correct. After
referral to Windsock Datafile 55 to get the correct spanning spar length
between the two floats, I had to re-size all of the remaining float support
spars to get the plane to sit correctly. Pretty tedious stuff, and I came
close to completely trashing the thing several times. Also, another MAJOR
Flashback gaffe (among several others, for example, the lack of window holes
in the fuselage flooring) was that the depth of the fuselage in the vicinity
of the cockpit is nearly one scale foot too shallow (again, measured against
Ray Rimell's data), giving the entire plane a somewhat anemic appearance. As
this much of a discrepancy seemed totally unacceptable to me, I deemed it
necessary to build a new fuselage bottom from scratch. Details of this
process are provided on my homepage. The lozenge is Pegasus' German Naval
Lozenge sheet and it is a WINNER. Easy to work with, beautiful color.
This is the
Blue Max Halberstadt Cl.II kit.
The Hannover was, without a doubt, the most difficult model I have ever
built, but it was also a real blast. With the nature of Eduard kits from the
early 90s being what it was, it almost built like a vacuum kit, i.e., a
semi-scratchbuild when considering all the grinding and sawing required to
make it fit together properly. The fishing line wiring in this kit is
actually structural, required to keep the wings at the proper angle. Lozenge
is Pegasus upper, SuperScale lower. Fuselage is handpainted. Inner fuselage
woodwork is done with Gunze lacquer Sand-gelb with colored pencil graining.
Prop is carved, cyanoacrylated teak, and all struts are .5mm brass
rod-reinforced, cyanoacrylated teak strip (the plastic struts in the kit
weren't strong enough to support the structural wiring).
Blue Max's LVG C.VI, which was released in 2001. Another fun
build thanks to
Chris Gannon. No real headaches outside of the rigging (which is
damned fault for being so nitpicky) and the problems I ran into
white metal bulkheads
didn't fit after I narrowed the fuselage halves to match Datafile
Guns are Tom's Modelworks, ammo belt on Parabellum uses Dr.
technique, as described in his Halberstadt Cl.II build. Instruments
seatbelts are Eduard. Fuselage interior was sprayed a reddish tan,
with water-thinned acrylic red brown, then given a Gregg Cooper
(artists oils heavily thinned with Zippo fluid). Fuselage exterior
Steve Perry's painted wood decal technique, lifted directly (with his
permission, blessings and guidance...ha-ha...) from his own LVG
Rigging turnbuckles are functional, i.e., actually load-bearing.
0.15mm copper wire stripped from electrical cord and twisted ring
.2mm steel rod. The twisted tail on the end of the resulting ring is
into a .5mm hole on the model. Very strong. Rigging itself is the
process of threading the rings with nylon line, hemostat clamping,
I really need pix to explain this...Method for making these was
taught to me
by Jiro Hashimoto, who is hands down the best WWI modeler in
the Far East --
an honor to know the man and be able to call him friend and
5-color lozenge is homegrown, thanks to the ALPS printer. On a
this was my last batch of lozenge before suffering the double
having the ALPS going bottoms-up on me AND losing the
Illustrator files for
the lozenge on my last hard disk crash. Hope I've put them to
Thanks to all of the listmembers who helped me with info/opinions
this project. Special thanks to Steve Perry, for sharing the secrets
painted wood decal technique; and to Shane Weier for
the Niendorf prop decals from his precious Americal Gryphon
The Siemens-Schuckert D.III was one of Eduard's "early days" WWI efforts,
and it builds like it. Considerable bump'n'grind required to put everything
together, but in the end, voila, a butt-kicker indeed. Wiring, as usual, is
magic-markered fishing line. 5-color lozenge is Aeromaster
(EVERYONE WRITE TO AEROMASTER AND TELL THEM TO PRINT UP MORE!!!)
and the paint job is mostly Gunze lacquer and Humbrol for the details. Oh, and
the wood grain effect was done with a cheap colored pencil. Same technique I
used on the fuselage interior of the Hannover (see my homepage), with an
overspray of Clear Orange mixed with Smoke Gray. Lozenged strut is painted, not